Holiday accommodation near Pezenas and Cap d Agde, in Languedoc, south of France

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2010-04-21T20:30:00.001+02:00

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Happy New Year from French Country

2010-01-02T13:21:00.007+01:00

A Happy New Year to all visitors to the French Country website. Hopefully many of you find the bits and pieces of news I write interesting, giving you a flavour of life here in the south of France. Perhaps the articles may even entice some of you to sample the life for yourself and spend a beautiful holiday in our region.

For us this has been a wonderful festive season. I last wrote about the pre-Christmas shopping trip we made to Montpellier, getting the Christmas feeling as we spent time in Les Hivernales - the Christmas Market. Well, the feeling continued as we spent a beautiful Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. For Christmas Eve we went to Béziers, to la cathédrale Saint-Nazair, shown below.

This is a beautiful cathedral with a history stretching back to the 13th century. The original cathedral, built on the site of an ancient Roman temple, was completely destroyed during the Cathars crusade in 1209. The reconstruction of the current cathedral started around 1250, and over the centuries further additions have been made to the original building.

The Christmas service in the cathedral is always special. This year, as before, the choir - les Petits Chanteurs de la Trinité, made the service even more so. It was wonderful to listen to the choir as they sang some very popular French seasonal songs.

Les Petits Chanteurs de la Trinité in the cathedral in Béziers

For Christmas Day we had decided to forgo the many invitations we had received, and resisted the special Christmas Day menus offered by most of the local restaurants. We had already agreed that after such a busy and hectic year we wanted a special tête-a-tête. And so it was, with a traditional French Christmas meal cooked and served at home. Just the two of us, enjoying Christmas Day together.

During the festive week we then met with many friends and spent several evenings enjoying apéros and nibbles and long conversations to discover how everyone had been spending this traditional family time.

For St. Sylvestre - New Year's Eve, we were invited by our friends from Nantes to spend the evening at their home with friends and family in the village. This was a beautiful way to bring in the New Year so we gladly accepted their kind invitation.

This was a so typically French, south of France French, dinner, which, after a large selection of different mise en bouche apéros, started with a large plate containing loads of oysters, fresh from Brittany. Treats to follow included other specialities from our friend's home area, Brittany, with a small cassolette with Fois gras and apples, sanglier (boar) with cherries, potatoes gratinée and dressings.

"the meal started with a large plate containing loads of oysters..."

Then a wonderful selection of cheeses, including two our friends brought back from the UK - Cheddar and Cheshire (for David!). Finally, a traditional Christmas buche - a wonderful chocolate log made by Lucette, one of our friends.

Of course, we had champagne and quite a few bottles (we didn't count) of wine, both from St. Etienne and our village. As I said, a typical French New Years Eve celebration with friends to bring in 2010.

As a footnote we returned on New Years Day to share afternoon lunch with our friends. A totally different celebration to that enjoyed by over 300 people in nearby Cap d'Agde. They spent their New Year's Day on the naturist beach at Cap d'Agde enjoying the traditional midday plunge into the Mediterranean. Whilst I strongly recommend the Mediterranean for swimming during the holidays I can't quite say that it's at it's best on New Year's day. Even though we had a typical blue sky with lots of sunshine, the temperature of the sea was not that we have during the summer - for sure! The photo below, published from the local Midi Libre newspaper, shows some of the swimmers as they take the plunge. Brrrr... that's cold

Montpellier and "Les Hivernales"

2009-12-10T21:04:00.016+01:00

The Christmas tree on Place de la Comedie - not real snow of course!

On Saturday, for the first time this year, we both got really caught up with the Christmas spirit. We went to Montpellier to do some shopping. Not Christmas shopping, but shopping normally. I needed new shoes and Montpellier has plenty of shoe shops. They offer a good choice too, from the normal average everyday shoes, to the exorbitantly expensive high fashion shoes. I wish! I would be very happy to just buy nice shoes.

This time we did not park in the city centre. We were feeling environmentally friendly so we parked as we left the A9 autoroute and took a Park and Ride tram from St. Jean de Vedas. The city has done really well to invest in the super tram system. They have two main lines covering a very wide area of the city and outlying suburbs and are now in the process of constructing a third line that will go directly from city center to the coastal beaches.

I must write more about the tram system on another posting as the system is so important for tourists taking their holidays in the area. Everyone should know how easy it is to use and the areas it covers.

But for now back to the Staurday shopping trip. We alighted from the tram right in the centre, on Place de la Comedie. And surprise, surprise, right into the center of the annual "Les Hivernales".

Temperartures of around 18 degrees C - that's considered cold for southerners, but warm enough to sit outside and have a 'vin chaud'

In the north-east of France at this time of year the city of Strasbourg has the oldest and largest Christmas market in France. With over 300 chalets market, the city attracts more than 1.6 million visitors, who throng the ancient streets during the Christmas season. Strasbourg Christmas market has been there since at least 1570 - at that time called Klausenmaërik (Market St. Nicolas), an Anglo-Saxon name varying marking the close alliance with Germany.

The city of Montpellier's history goes back even further, but "Les Hivernales" (Christmas Market) is a more recent tradition compared with Strasburg. Nevertheless, with over 170 traders presenting and selling their products, it is quite an event.

On Place de la Comedie, the traders are there from December 4 thro' January 3. It's billed as four weeks of happiness, rendezvous, dining and a general 'feel-good' atmosphere. Well, for the two of us, it was all that, and with all the choice from different vendors we were spoiled for choice for Christmas gifts for friends and family - or for just the two of us.

Nearly every cabin is selling artisan goods - here chocolate goodies from a local Chocolatier

The city makes it clear that this is not "your ordinary Christmas Markett" but a Christmas market that reflect the customs and traditions of the south of France. There are no Swiss Chalet types for example, instead, in the best Mediterranean traditions, there are' cabins'. Traditionally these are built using timber and reeds, to reflect the earlier living accommodation of the nearby Camargue.

This cabin does a good trade selling Aligot - one of David's favourites ever since we had a short break in the Aubrac, home of Agilot. A dish made from fresh, raw milk cheese, pressed curd, mashed potatoes, fresh cream, butter and garlic. The cabin was also typically selling Andouillette (Chitterlings) – NOT one of David’s favourites!

Montpellier Christmas market is not just an event to buy gifts, it's also a place to meet local producers who love their products - meats, cheeses, aligot (see 'cabin' selling Agilot above), perfumes, chocolates and more. Local products 'made with love' they say. It's a beautiful event filled with atmosphere and the southern way of life.

We spent more time looking around the different 'cabins' than we anticipated when we arrived, but spent a wonderful Saturday afternoon. Oh yes, and I got a beautiful pair of shoes. Good day!

Closing note. Who can resist Marrons Chaud - roasted chestnuts? Christmas and Bing Crosby or what? So yes, we bought some, and, fingers burning as we peeled them, we ate them while we waited for the tram to take us home.

23rd Téléthon weekend

2009-12-05T12:56:00.005+01:00

An important day today - the start of the 23rd Téléthon, a popular television event that involves everyone throughout the whole of France. The event is held to raise money to fund research on rare diseases. Each year over 5 million people take to the streets for the event, a festival sometimes described as "July 14 in winter", and it is a sort of social bond for many French people.

Last year 104 million euros was raised during the event weekend, nearly half coming from the street events; sales of crêpes, bric-a-brac, sales of items knitted by volunteers, bike races, balloon releases and so on. The rest comes from the 'phone-in donations during a 36 hour television marathon, with all French state television channels involved.

Each of our village associations organised something different, but all with the same aim of raising money.

Problems

There is a small blot on the scene this year however which threatens to dampen the spirit of those who participate and those who give their money. The high fashion designer, millionaire Pierre Berge, who is the President of Sidaction (an organisation trying to raise money for research into AIDS and helping to develop new drugs), sparked an uproar which threatens to cause problems.

He accused the French association against Myopathies (AFM), whose funds depend mainly on Téléthon money, as being "a parasite on the generosity the French people". Rather than the whole money raised going to a charity which funds research into disease affecting a small minority, he proposes to share the money raised with other equally serving causes. In addition, he pointed out the vast sums of money that the association put in banks just to earn interest income, rather than spending on research. I believe he is right in this aim.

Montblanc Téléthon

However, that did not stop the Téléthon and all the fund-raising events today. Our village of Montblanc is no exception, and despite a cooler than normal November day, the village Place was full, with people participating in this annual event.

This event started at 8.30 with the sale of "d'Oreillettes", a large and sweet crispy thin wafer, already prepared by a local artisan and boxed ready to take home (photo left). Every city, town and village will be taking part, holding special attractions and events, with the sole aim of raising money for the charity involved.

Then at 9.00 the first of "Randodonnee Cycliste", a leisurely bike ride of around 60 kms (leisurely for the French that is - a marathon for my husband!), taking in several neighbouring villages. Just after this event started, the local motorcycle club (around 40 members) set off on their adventure, raising money as they go.

Around the Place there were many market stalls, quickly erected by volunteers to host various sales pitches. This included the sale of fresh oysters, direct from Bouzigues, a coastal with the largest oyster beds on the Mediterranean and just down the road from us, so to speak. There are also stalls selling various hand-made items. Face-painting for children, release of balloons with messages quickly written on their labels, everything is in full swing.

Fishing in the village fountain

Members of Pescofis - the local fishing club, even commandeered the village fountain, filling the water with trout! Children paid to hire a small fishing line to hook the fish, the successful ones proudly giving them to mum to take home for the evening meal. The photo below shows children deciding which of the trout they will catch when the event starts.

The large barbeque was doing extremely well, selling burgers, sausis and fries - delicious. Then one stall sells other food, something typically French - crêpes!

My best friend Martine (in the centre of the photo) was making and selling these.

She confided in me that as she is originally from Brittany in the north, it's only correct that she makes them. After all she says, it is a Bretagne delicacy, and she makes them properly - not like they do in the south.

The event will continue tonight, with a dance in the village hall, and with a large Lotto organised for tomorrow afternoon.

We're not sure how much money has been raised yet, but everyone has worked extremely hard to make this event a success.

Winegrowers demonstrate in region's capital

2009-11-29T12:12:00.007+01:00

The start of the demonstration at Place Peyrou, Montpellier

I chose a bad day for a RDV with a client on Wednesday. The meeting had been arranged two weeks ago, and was to be held in offices situated in Rue de la Loge, Montpellier. I thought the city was busier than usual when I arrived and parked in the Place de la Comedie large car park. Wednesday is usually busy as it's the children's day off from school, so it's the day that mum can take them with her to do some shopping. But it seemed much busier than normal.

As I left the underground car park I saw lots more activity and it was then I realised I had chosen the day of the big Winegrowers demonstration. Bad decision, but an important client, so I had to go ahead and try to get through.

The reason for the demonstration is well known. For a long time the winegrowers in this area have been making complaints about the perilous state of the wine growing industry in Languedoc. Normally this has involved lobbying politicians or holding large demonstration - like today's, to raise public awareness.

Unfortunately, many members of the wine growing community feel that this is not enough and many times have resorted to violence. This has included throwing sticks of dynamite at agriculture ministry offices in Montpellier and Carcassonne causing serious damage, burning cars, including a car outside ministry offices in Nîmes, trashing and setting fire to the Péage offices near Pézenas, trashing local supermarkets, who they say either do not pay enough for the wine - or worse still, they sell wine from other countries instead of only French wine.

The government did act in response to the lobbying and demonstrations but the €70 million rescue plan tabled by the minister of agriculture Dominique Bussereau has been widely criticised for not going far enough. The winegrowers say they need and deserve more.

So this time they had a very large demonstration, completing blocking many parts of the city. I must add that David says that the French are by far the best at organising and staging demonstrations and strikes. Stood in the middle and looking at today's event's, I believe he must be right.

Then, after what was essentially a peaceful if not very noisy 'manifestation', the fringe element did start to cause some serious problems. I had long returned home, passing hundreds of gendarmes along the motorway and at the Pézenas péage, and the TV and radio reports were full of the events that occurred after the main demonstration in Montpellier had finished.

Several coach loads of winegrowers and their supporters, homeward bound, decided to stop at various locations on the way. The police did their best to stop them - they blocked off the town of Pézenas with over 200 gendarmes, and Béziers with even more gendarmes.

However, the demonstrators managed to stop their coaches near the village of Servian. They attacked the Lidl supermarket, trashed several police cars, lit fires on the route nationale and even set off rocket flares at the patrolling police helicopter, before the gendarmes repelled them with tear gas.

This was a sad end to what could have been a popular demonstration - the whole community depends upon a thriving wine industry so there is a lot of sympathy for the winegrowers. However, with so much world competition, and a shrinking home market (within France, wine consumption has fallen to 50 litres per adult per year, compared to 100 litres in the 1960s) it is more and more difficult for the winegrowers.

Perhaps a change of tactics is needed by all those involved in producing wine if matters are to improve.

Armistice Day

2009-11-11T16:15:00.012+01:00

I write this entry on November 11, Armistice Day. Memorial services are held in many countries of the world to mark the ending of World War One. In France today is a Public Holiday, and our village, along with other villages, towns and cities throughout France, ceremonies are held at 11.00, the exact moment when the guns fell silent on Armistice Day in 1918. France today is a Public Holiday, and our village, along with other villages, towns and cities throughout France, ceremonies are held at 11.00, the exact moment when the guns fell silent on Armistice Day in 1918.

In Paris, for the first time since the armistice, a German leader has joined French officials to mark the moment the guns fell silent, with Chancellor Angela Merkel and French President Nicolas Sarkozy laid a floral wreath at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at the Arc Triumph.

Here in our village Whilst it may not have the same high profile as the occasion in Paris, it is still Regarded as an important and a solemn event. We always waiting, believing that it is so important to make sure we pay our respects and remember all Those Who Gave their lives for the peace and freedom we enjoy today. hose who gave their lives for the peace and freedom we enjoy today.

David always wears a poppy - this year they were selling them in Pézenas at a cafe called The Tea Shop, run by two English couples. However, all the people from the village who attend proudly wear 'Le Bleuet de France'. This is a small picture of a cornflower, hence the word 'blue' in the name. The cornflower was originally chosen in tribute to young soldiers who, during WW1, wore the same blue coloured uniforms.

They are sold by children, who go around the streets and call at houses with their rolls of flowers and collecting tins. David bought mine when he went to the Boulangerie for the bread this morning - plenty of children going around selling their Bleuets in the village square. The proceeds are to help soldiers wounded in wars.

The ceremony itself is evolving over time to ensure all generations are involved. Whilst children have always attended as groups, two years ago the French government asked all schools to ensure children were involved more. I believe our village it typical and at today's ceremony, not only were the troop of young Pompiers (fire-fighters) present (age between 12 and 15 years), there was a contingent from the primary school just across the road, accompanied by teachers and the Headmaster, and a group of children from the High School. They are asked to participate "lest they forget" at school and also at the ceremony.

At the village war memorial, a young Pompier, together with the President of the Anciens Combattants, Robert Chauvel, who led the ceremony

The students from the High School contributed by taking in turn to read extracts from articles about the war. Under guidance from the English teacher at the college, one young student had even prepared a speech in English. She wore a red poppy, not a Bleuet, and told the people present about last years ceremony in London, on Remembrance Sunday when three of the last surviving veterans of the First World War joined serving soldiers in current conflicts to mark the 90th anniversary of the day peace returned to Europe.

She read their names, and their age at the time of the ceremony; Henry Allingham, aged 112, Harry Patch, aged 110, and Bill Stone, aged 108. Also the forces they represented and to which they belonged during the conflict, the Royal Air Force, the Army and the Royal Navy.
She concluded her speech by saying one of the survivors, all of whom had since died, had said how important it was, never to forget the sacrifices made. It was for that reason she said, that we are here today, and for French people to never forget the sacrifices the English and other nations made for France.

David was quite moved that this young student should stand in front of an assembly and give such a tribute, and to say it in English.

The ceremony ended with what is now usual here in France. Normally there would be music, the playing of " La Marseillaise", the French National Anthem. However, in another move by the Government to encourage people to show more patriotism, to feel good to be French if you like, they have asked people at events not to play music, but to encourage people to sing the National Anthem instead.

This is certainly working, as more and more people sing - and sing loud, in a very patriotic and proud way. David is very impressed with the way the French have taken up this idea of expressing their "Frenchness". He would like to think that would work in the UK, but is doubtful. All the ideas of creating a 'Britishness' usually meets with PC cynicism.

Then after the ceremony, the mayor, as usual here, invites everyone to the Mairie for an aperitif. A chance to meet friends and have a chat.

Great music in Montpellier

2009-10-14T22:00:00.007+02:00

The 13th International Guitar Festival has been going at full strength since the start of the month and is due to continue until October 18. There are over 15 main concerts taking place in several of the large halls in the city during the festival, plus many many more in other halls and in the open air. Obviously many of the artists appearing during this festival period are of French origin, but there are also many international artists. These include master guitar virtuoso John Williams from the UK, Mick Taylor from the UK, previously the lead guitarist with the Rolling Stones between 1969 and 1975 appearing on the Stones' album "Sticky Fingers", "Let it Bleed" and "Exile on Main Street, Suzanne Vega, from the U.S., songwriter and performer, who experienced great success in the 80s with "My name is Luka" and "Tom's Diner".

However, Saturday October 24 is a very special event, particularly for my husband David. We're going to Montpellier to see one of the greats of folk music. Giving a free concert on the Esplanade off Peyrou (downtown), is Joan Baez.

From Woodstock to her mythical Christmas concert at Notre Dame in Paris in 1980, to the stage in Hanoi, Eastern Europe and the Middle East, no artist better Symbolizes universalism, peace and the fight against injustice around the world.

And now, Joan Baez will be in Montpellier for a unique free concert beneath the star-filled sky. This will be a wonderful event and we do not intend to miss it.

Easier and cheaper holidays in 2010 for some

2009-09-08T10:44:00.005+02:00

A quick post! Great news for anyone wanting to travel to the south of France from the north of England. Ryanair has announced that they will begin flights out of Leeds Bradford airport to Carcassonne and Montpellier in March next year. This will certainly make travelling to the Languedoc region easier and cheaper for many holidaymakers.

Ryanair stated that they have now started taking bookings for the new routes.

Bonne route!

Cigognes - storks, rest in Montblanc en route to Africa

2009-08-31T15:38:00.004+02:00

I had no plans to write an article this week as we are so busy in the office. However, the event last night made me change my mind. After a busy, busy day I sat outside on the terrace with David to relax over a relatively simple meal and a glass (or two) of wine.

We had just finished desert when David's attention was caught by an amazing sight. What seemed to be a large flock of birds were flying low, and in a rough formation, over the trees in the garden towards our house. As they got closer David said they were flamingos, but no, when they were really close I could see that they were cigognes - storks in English.

To see so many large birds gracefully gliding and swirling around was a truly wonderful sight. They circled the house three of four times before swinging northwards towards the centre of the village.

The next morning, Renée et Laurent Martinotti, friends of ours in the village, sent this photo they took, showing the cigognes as they perched on the Montblanc village church, settling down for the night after a long flight during the day.

Resting on Montblanc village church for the night

The cigognes are on their annual migration, coming from the north-east of France, probably Alsace, and are on their way to Africa for the winter. They are large birds and, because of their body weight, like eagles, they rely on gliding and soaring with thermals. Although we are only about 12 kms from the Mediterranean, they will not fly direct to Africa that way due to the lack of thermals over water. Instead, after resting for the night, they will continue their journey southwards, soaring over the Pyrenees into Spain, and then fly all the way down to the Straits of Gibraltar, following the coastline and choosing to cross the Mediterranean at it's narrowest point. Altogether, this is something like a 4,500 kms return trip - each year!

A concert evening in L’Eglise St. Christophe, Margon

2009-08-28T09:46:00.008+02:00

The village of Margon, surrounded by vineyards

As I often say, there is always something to do, something to see or somewhere to visit in the region. This makes the area so much more exciting and interesting for holidaymakers, and of course, people who live here – like me.

Unfortunately however, unlike those on holiday here, I am working here. That means I cannot do or see everything I want to. But, when you are on holiday you should read all the local publicity flyers, posters, or brochures to find out 'What's On'. Then, if the event appeals, just go there and join in, whether it's a local fete, a concert (most of them free in the summer), a parade, or any other 'happening'.

This week, having seen a flyer advertising an unusual concert evening, it was a visit to Margon, a beautiful village with a picturesque Disney-type chateau. The concert evening, organised by a village association (C.A.L.M.) was held in the small and charming village church, L’Eglise St. Christophe. The date over the door as you enter gives a sense of history - built 1652!

The concert was given by Pete Churchill and his London Vocal Project and advertised on the flyer as an evening of "...hand-clapping choral arrangements of popular soul, gospel and jazz, from Stevie Wonder to Carole King, sung by a marvellous choir of young vocalists."

The concert in L’Eglise St. Christophe, Margon

The singers who make up the London Vocal Project are drawn from the students and alumni of the leading London music colleges. They were in the area that week as the whole ensemble were taking a working holiday at a nearby hotel, La Maison Verte, in Roujan. This hotel regularly organises working weeks, each with a different theme - a week of learning how to paint, or play a musical instrument, or even a 'writer's week'. People who arrive for these events are usually accomplished in their skills in some way and the week is to add a little more professionalism. Like the young students this week, all accomplished vocalists, brought together so they could learn even more.

Pete Churchill, enthusiastically leading the young students

This impressive array of vocal talent was led by pianist Pete Churchill, whose arrangements of traditional and contemporary Gospel music, South African protest songs and classics by Labi Siffre, James Taylor, Paul Simon and Carole King provided an uplifting repertoire for an engaging choral performance.

As expected, the tiny church was packed, with lots of people from the village obviously, but also many people who are in the area on holiday, and the audience made the young singers feel completely at home, right from the word go. Pete Churchill introduced both himself and all the young people. What followed was singing that can only be described as enchanting and captivating, as the group worked their way through a repertoire that included soul, jazz, and many very familiar songs. This was more than songs from the 60’s and 70’s, this was real music and a show presented with true professionalism and great enthusiasm.

The evening ended with three "encores", which the group willingly gave, ending the concert by walking in file, singing as they left the church onto the small street outside.

Absolutely wonderful - an evening not to be missed, whether as a local resident or holidaymaker.

Vendange - the harvest for the wine crop 2009

2009-08-27T15:52:00.009+02:00

It’s 3.00am Monday and the combined engine roar and whine of the huge vendange machines as they trundle past our house is incredible. Of course, we have the bedroom windows open, with the curtains wafting in the warm early morning breeze, and this allows the noise to intrude and awaken us. The sound heralds the start of this year's vendange - the harvest.

After 12 months working in the fields to ensure the best possible crop, it's now time for the winegrowers to see if all their work has been worthwhile. In this area the harvest will continue until well into September - the time and duration of picking usually depending upon the weather, the variety of grape and how each variety has fared during its growing season.

Wine produced by the Greeks and Romans
When vinified and bottled the wine will be labelled as wine from Languedoc – Roussillon. The area has around 700,000 acres (2,800 km2) under vines and is the single biggest wine-producing region in the world, being responsible for more than a third of France's total wine production. (Until a few years ago the region produced more wine than the entire United States.)

Wine has been grown in this area since then 5th century BC, cultivated along the Mediterranean coast by the Greeks, and in later centuries, by the Romans.

Whilst during the middle ages wine from the area was considered the best produced in France, unfortunately during the last century, as production concentrated on quantity rather than quality, the reputation was lost, and wine from the area was called le gros rouge — cheap red wine, plonk.

The winegrowers woke up a little late, seeing their markets disappear to new world wines – Australia, California, Chile, East European producers and many other countries, and so have concentrated their efforts on producing less wine but of higher quality. They appear to be succeeding and there is now a wide range of high quality wines bearing the label “wine of Languedoc – Roussillon".

Caves Coopératives and Independents.
There are two main outlets for producing wine – Caves Coopératives and Independents. The caves coopératives was a government backed initiative to give support to the winegrowers at the beginning of the 20th century. During the 1920’s and 30’s the number of caves coopératives grew quickly. Most of the special buildings to produce the wine were built during this period, with government help; hence, they all look very similar in style. Wine growers who are members of the coopérative elect to share profits and costs, and to bring in their grapes to be mixed with similar grapes to produce the end product and be labelled wine from the cave cooperative.

At the village of Pouzolles, a typical cave cooperative during the vendange

Members of French winemaking coopératives own more than half the total French vineyard surface and produce more than half the total amount of French wine.

Independents quite simply do it on their own, picking, making and bottling their own wine with their own label. And there are many winegrowers who still pick the grapes by hand. This is backbreaking, slow laborious work, although the benefits can result in a better end product - the grapes aren’t bruised so much, and this helps improve the taste (they say).

Automatic grape pickers, making work a little easier
However, most winegrowers now use one of the many types of automatic grape pickers - the Braud, New Holland and Pellenc being the first few that spring to mind.

They traverse the rows of vines and make their way from one end of the vineyard to the other. As they do this, bars inside the machine vibrate and beat off the bunches of ripe grapes. They drop into small 'plastic pockets' attached to conveyor belts on either side of the beater bar assembly and are taken up to be deposited in large metal hoppers fixed to each side of the machine. They are then dropped into trailers waiting behind parked tractors and make their way to the local cave or domain.

A Braud machine making its way up a row of vines

Even as I write, things could go horribly wrong. The weather has been kind, plenty of sunshine and little rain - it has only rained on one occasion sine May - and that was a brief 15 minute shower. But the weather can be unpredictable at this time of year, and a bad storm, or worse still, a hail storm, can ruin a whole year's work. Last year it did hail in this area. A few villages such as Pouzolles and Nèffies had started the vendange one day, to have a violent hailstorm that completed destroyed the crop the next.

But so far everything is looking good, and expectations are high for a very good vintage. The grapes are not so big this year - with so little rain they haven't grown so much. However, this means a higher percentage of sugar content, which when going through the wine vinification process, means a higher alcohol content. There will be less quantity of wine, but it should be of a higher quality, unless the alcohol level goes too high.

Wine produced from the small grapes grown in the hot blistering summer of 2003, the hottest summer on record, was very high in alcohol - sometimes over 14.5% alcohol. This is too high. Too high an alcohol content makes it difficult to appreciate the many different subtle flavours of a wine.

Which wine is best is always a matter of personal taste. However, when on holiday it’s always good fun to visit either a local cave or independent domain to sample their particular wines, either by buying it by the bottle, or vrac (on draught) and having a 5L bidon filled from apparatus that looks like a petrol pump.

So, this year, as the vendange starts in beautiful hot sunny weather, it's fingers crossed that the weather will hold, with no violent storms, until all the grapes are harvested.

Fête de la Libération

2009-08-23T15:02:00.017+02:00

La Place, already starting to fill up as we arrive for La Fête de la Libération

Another weekend, and very, very busy. In our village, as in many other towns and villages, Saturday was Fête de la Libération. This is a day held to commemorate and celebrate the liberation of the region of Languedoc from German occupation. The day is not to be confused with the VE Day, which is on May 8, and is a National Public Holiday. That day is to commemorate the end of WWII and is a very solemn ceremony, with parades and wreath laying to remember those who gave their lives in the wars.

No, although there is a wreath laying ceremony and official marking of this day, this is more a celebration. The event in our village is organised by the Ancients Combatants, the French equivalent of the British Legion, in alliance with other supporting associations.

After a full day of preparation the event starts at 18.30 with the official ceremony in front of the war memorial. The mayor, and leaders of the different groups of Ancient Combatants, parade to the war memorial and stand to attention as military music is played by a small group of musicians. After the wreaths are laid at the foot of the monument, and a minute's silence to remember all who gave their lives during the conflicts, the mood changes, as a rousing rendition of "Le Marseilles" is played. Stirring stuff!

Then, everyone takes their place at the tables and chairs already set out on the main Place of the village. The Place itself is typical of nearly every village in the south of France, although not all have the main Place in front of the Mairie. However, most do have a war memorial, and of course, plenty of Plane trees to shelter from the sun. Saturday at 2.00pm we had temperatures hovering around 39 degrees, so the trees do give some respite.

Then, it's time for the celebrations, which as usual, is an amazing night of good food and wine and the very best of music - an extravaganza of a show.

The meal is provided by the Ancient Combatants with assistance of the local Football Club. They prepared meals to suit all, from paella, to grilled meats and fries. For 10 euros you can have the set meal, delivered on large airline type trays. The meal includes fresh melon, two large sausages, plenty of fries, or paella if you wish - and of course bread and cheese. All this followed by desert, Tarte Normande - typically French.

The wine is from the local cave - of course. It's one of the best wines, and specially suited for hot sunny days and warm evenings, "Les Fleurs de Montblanc, Syrah Rosé.

The show this year is provided by the outstanding Paul Selmer Ochestre. David tells me that Paul Selmer fits with the title of one of his favourite books, a biography of Jack Hulmes, a photographer from his home town. The title is "World Famous Around Here", which he says really does sum up Paul Selmer and his orchestra. They really are fabulous and attract large crowds wherever they play.

The orchestra is a team of 24, composed of singers, dancers and the musicians, who play a wide range of instruments. Most of the team are young people who are attending the music academy in Montpellier, so each year it's a continually changing team - except for the older ones who seem to have been part of the orchestra since it started in the 60's.

On Stage - the Paul Selmer Orchestre

The music is a melange of 40's - Glenn Miller and the Andrew Sisters for example (Rum and Coca Cola?!) and typical music of the era of the Libération, through the 50's, 60's and 70's up to the present day. For example they ochestre and girls did a wonderful sequence with Indian style dancing whilst singing "Jai Ho" (the theme music from Slumdog Millionaire) in the style of the Pussycat Dolls.

This is another opportunity to spend a beautiful evening meeting friends and chatting together, learning the latest news and generally having a good time. Plus of course, plenty of floor space to have a dance to 'til the early morning.

David says it's events like this, enjoying an evening with friends in the open air, with plenty of entertainment and warm ambience, that help make life in the south of France so idyllic.

Footnote: Between our village and the neighbouring village of Valros is a large cross, erected in the vineyards by the side of the Route National, the N9 between Pézenas and Béziers. The cross is in memory of four people, three of them teenagers, who were brutally shot and killed as the German troops evacuated Béziers and fled north.

Their crime? They had been fishing in the nearby River Thongue and as they walked home they saw the German trucks and started to jeer at the convoy. As an act of reprisal German soldiers in some of the trucks fired at the youths. They were all killed.

This act is remembered each year on this day and fresh flowers are laid at the foot of the cross by the local municipality and the families of those killed. The cross bears the names of those killed with the inscription "Cowardly killed by the Germans, August 18 1944".

Béziers Féria 2009

2009-08-13T13:58:00.022+02:00

This weekend it's the big one in our region: it's the Béziers Féria. This five day event is huge, attracting over one million visitors, all of whom come to enjoy the excitement, the music, dancing, food and wine.

The whole of the city centre is closed off, with barriers erected on the main roads, with bars and restaurants moving onto the pavements and allowing pedestrians to completely fill the streets, streets free of any traffic.

Initially the Féria centred around bullfighting, a big tradition in the area, with a large Corrida taking place over four days in Béziers Arenas. I know many people who go each year to the Arenas for the Corrida, but this isn't for me.

Béziers Arenas, with the tops of the hospitality marquees just visible

I go for different reasons. The Arenas building is perfect for staging other events. Only two weeks ago we had a beautiful evening at the opera. We were invited by our local printers in Béziers, Combes-Hund, first as guests in their hospitality marquee, and then in their 'royal box' to watch Verdi's "La Traviata". This was a beautiful. We eventually moved to a place in the Arenas, sitting under the stars on a very warm evening and thoroughly enjoyed the performance. It was beautiful.

La Traviata. The photo quality not as good as David's photos, but this was taken on my mobile

Even if you don't visit the Arenas for the bullfighting, there are large marquees called "Espace Corrales".

These are the large marquees that surround the building, and they are open to the public each lunchtime and evening. here you can enjoy a plate of Tapas provided by a famous chef from Toulouse for around 12 euros - Jambon Rioja+Pan con tomate, Chorizo, Tortilla, Tapenade. Delicious, with local red wine and sunshine.

The main entrance to the Arenas

There are also many other events held here that are perfect for the seating arrangements and the general ambiance of this historic building. So, even though bullfighting at the Arenas is big for many people in Béziers, I prefer a rock show or an evening at the opera.

But, back to news about Béziers Féria 2009. It is officially opened by the sénateur and mayor of Béziers, Raymond Couderc on Thursday August 13. Then it's party, party, party, with loads of events and activities during the day, and the whole town coming alive during the night until 4 and 5 each morning. All the cafés and restaurants are bulging, and you can't visit a cafe or bar without the traditional bowl of mussels and plate of fries. Each cafe seems to be competing to attract your custom to indulge yourself.

Fountains at the top of Allées Paul Riquet - evenings this area will be packed with revellers

On the main Places, plus the normal car parks, long tables have been installed, so visitors can go to any of the mobile cafes, order their meal and then sit in the open wherever the wish. And of course, local wine is in abundance. They even have a special wine produced just t fro the Féria. I don't suggest that the wine is as good as the excellent wines from famous domains, but it is quite drinkable and is a wonderful souvenir to take home to drink and remind you of your holiday in the south of France.

The programme is jam packed with parades, gala events - including the crowning of Miss Féria, spectacular dancing (tango, flamenco, rumba, pasa...), concerts, music from a score of different groups and orchestras, including the famous Copa Cabana orchestra, street disco parties, bodegas, the Village du théâtre have what they call “le plus gros dance floor 80’s de la Féria 2009″, the largest 1980s dance floor in the world, and music at the Place de la Madeleine, equestrian events, rugby matches - including the one featuring the Catalan Dragons (Perpignan) against Hull FC I mentioned in a previous article...

I stop. Rather than trying to list the five day's of events you can visit the websites of Beziers Tourist Office, or Béziers Arenas, or there is a programme you can download. Click here for the Programme (PDF file). Maybe it's too late for your holiday this year, but next year pencil it in - holiday, south of France to go to the Béziers Féria!

As a foot note, the Mayor was brought into a controversy surrounding the publication of the official poster for the Féria, shown at the top of this article. This is a collage of typical Féria and Béziers images - flamenco dancer, a toreador, and a Béziers rugby player with a bulls head superimposed on his body. Unfortunately, the artist who did this used a photo of the famous French player Sébastien Chabal. Chabal objected to his photo being used in connection with bullfighting - he does not approve, and the mayor ordered the quick withdrawal and re-printing of the poster.

La 24ème Foire aux Huîtres

2009-08-10T16:43:00.004+02:00

This Sunday we had time out to visit the nearby village of Bouzigues. The village is one of many dotted along the Étang de Thau or Bassin de Thau, a huge inland lake (the second largest in France) that opens onto the Mediterranean. It is famous for its shellfish - 18 different varieties! As an example, over 3,000 tonnes of mussels are farmed here each year.

However, the most important shellfish from the étang are oysters. Up to 800 local producers farm the 3,000 oyster tables that are strung out in the étang.

Oysters are suspended from the 3,000 tables in the étang whilst they grow

These produce just over 13,000 tonnes of oysters each year - almost 10% of France's consumption. The oysters are marketed under the name "Huîtres de Bouzigues", a mark of quality.
Every year, in August, the village organise a "Foire aux Huîtres", an Oyster Festival to celebrate the queen of shell fish. Thousands of visitors descend on the village to participate in this important event. This was the 24th annual Foire aux Huîtres, and it was a wonderful experience - obviously made all the better for people who love the taste of oysters - as I do.

There are many, many stalls along the quayside with local producers selling their oysters for people to either eat there and then, or to take home. These are really fresh! The waters of the Étang de Thau are graded 'A', which means oysters pulled from the tables can be eaten immediately.

As we knew they would be, all the restaurants along the quayside were full to overflowing. A clear blue sky and sunshine had brought many more visitors this year - last year there was over 20,000 visitors.

The famous Pink Flamingos fishing in the étang

Most of the restaurants are owned and run by the family of a producer. In fact many of the buildings started life as the boat house for the producers generations ago. Now they are delightful and unique restaurants specialising only in fish courses, including locally caught Dorada, in English I think this is Bream.

And of course, each of the restaurants offer a choice of the very best oysters. A normal dish is 12 oysters, a slice of lemon, bread (of course) with, unusually for a French restaurant, a square of butter, together with a bottle of appropriate wine - locally produced Picpoul de Pinet, the perfect wine for most fish dishes.

There are many events taking place over this festival weekend, starting with the official opening on Saturday by the mayor, and followed this year by a parade featuring Nana Brazil, a Brazilian troupe of dancers and singers. There was a further parade on Sunday, again with Nana Brazil, plus a group of dancers from Tahiti, as well as other events during the day.

Unfortunately we didn't stay for the firework display as we had an early start at work the next day - Monday is a normal working day, but we enjoyed our day out in the Mediterranean sunshine. And don't forget this festival when youn arrange your holiday next year - normally it's the first weekend in August.

It's summer, it's Montblanc Féria...

2009-08-07T14:35:00.019+02:00

The Féria - tables and chairs set out in front of the Mairie

A Catalan flavour for our Féria
You know it's summer for sure, not just with the clear blue skies and hot sunshine, but because of all the extra activities that are taking place. Throughout the summer months the south of France bursts into life, with fêtes, festivals, concerts, large markets selling local artisan products, and much, much more.

And I do love the fêtes that take place in this region. Each village, large and small, have their own individual fête, with the customs relevant to their area. Normally they last 3 to 4 days, with a different special event each day.

This year, as normal, we went to our village fête in Montblanc, not dissimilar to all the fêtes organised by all the other villages, but of course, this is our village, so it has to be better.

And, as I've explained in previous articles, our village has a Catalan origin, so the summer fête take on a French/Spanish theme - it's called a 'Féria' for example, not fête. It starts Thursday, July 30, with a huge paella soirée at the local cafe, "La France", complete with Spanish guitar music and Flamenco dancers.

Friday night is Party Night

Friday is when the first big party takes place. As usual, this is held on the Place in front of the Mairie. During the day there are plenty of activities, but principally another Petanque contest, with a paella meal for both participants and spectators - and local wine.

There is exciting Spanish 'Corrida' type music, played by a local band (from Beziers), complete with dancers, dressed in Corrida red and white. The dancers do a traditional dance in front of the marching band, waving their red bandanas over their heads.As they tour the village the sounds of the band waft over the rooftops all afternoon.

They also play and dance at the head of a procession of Camargue horses and bulls - just like a Corrida, just before the Abrivado

The dancers and band, followed by the horses from the Camargue

The first Abrivado
This is followed with an added spectacle of an Abrivado. For many years there has been a particular Spanish Bravados where bulls are let loose in the street. They run from one end to the other chasing the brave young ones who dare to run in front of them, and being chased by those not so brave who run behind. A sort of mini Pamplona.

However, this year, because of the large number of accidents and injuries, the village had instead a traditional Camargue Abrivado. The horseman from the Camargue arrive with their famous white horses, and gallop with the bulls around the streets. They use their remarkable skills of horsemanship to 'chaperone' the bulls as they speed through the village. Yes, occasionally a bull does break loose, and that's the time my cameraman (David) runs behind the nearest barrier - along with all the other spectators lining the streets!

The Abrivado coming up the street from the Mairie and go past our house

In the evening tables and chairs are quickly put in place for people to enjoy their meals and the entertainment. There is a large stage for all the groups that will perform, plus a huge 'canteen' where a large staff of volunteers prepare Spanish Tapas - a variety of meats, including plenty of Merguez, and shellfish such as mussels, for all those who come.

The canteen, with Spanish drapes, opens to it's first customers of the night

Plus, there is a very large bar to sell soft drinks, beers and local wine. It's very well organised. There is entertainment later in the evening from a pretty famous group, Bernard Becker, providing a mixture of Spanish, French and English music. Dancing goes on until well after midnight.

It all starts again on Saturday, with an early morning Abrivado, to help wake you up. And again, in the afternoon and evening, there is more Abrivado, with white horses and bulls galloping around the village, urged on by cheering crowds.

Another meal is prepared on the place - not as large this time, as it is only lunch, but with good local wine as an accompaniment. Later in the afternoon, there is the Toro Piscine, to test the metal of the young (and not so young. This is a mini bull ring, where young bulls and young people can chase each other around, showing just how brave they are. This is not a bull fight. there are no varas, banderillas or swords. It's just good fun. The girls of the village cheer on their boys, and the bulls give them a good run-around, chasing them around the small ring.

Then, in the evening, it's party time, with something like 900 people on the village Place for another large party. This starts with Flamenco dancing from a group called Sévillanes. Then again, there are Spanish Tapas from the canteen (photo right shows the Merguez going on one of the barbecues) , and local wine from the bar.

Later in the evening, there is a soirée mousse. This is where a dance floor, complete with a myriad of disco lighting is erected, and a house DJ plays a wide variety of music. At appropriate intervals, a large wind sock emits mousse onto the dance floor - a very bubbly mixture to excite the dancers. Dancing goes on until well after midnight.

Family affair and beautiful holiday memories
This is a real family affair, with large families all sat together around long tables, together with friends and neighbours from the village. Everyone is here to enjoy a meal, the wine, a chat with friends and neighbours, and good music. A perfect end to a beautiful weekend in the south of France.

When you take your holiday during the summer, do NOT miss out on the enjoyment to be had ain your village. perhaps it will not be quite the same as our village, but it will be good fun and will certainly add to your holiday memories.

Make sure you bring and carry all your ID cards

2009-07-27T15:16:00.010+02:00

Every ID card is important, for different reasons
It's common sense, but needs to be emphasised, that when you are travelling abroad you should be insured against accident or ill health. You will obviously have car insurance if travelling by car, and other travel insurance for flights or ferries.

And most important, before you set off on your holidays in France, or other European countries, you should have the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). This is the new card that replaced the E111 Form.

The European Health Insurance Card (EHIC)

The EHIC covers treatment needed during a trip due to either illness or accident. This includes treatment for chronic conditions, pre-existing conditions and routine maternity care, although some conditions apply and you should check with the Department of Health. The card gives access to free or low-cost emergency medical treatment, which will be delivered under the state health system in the country that you are visiting.

You can apply for a card (or renew an expired card) online at the NHS choices website by clicking here >

https://www.ehic.org.uk/Internet/home.do

Always carry your insurance papers with you - you never know when you might need them! And always carry your identity papers, including driving license; in many countries it's required by law.

This reminds me that in the UK the debate rumbles on about identity cards. So much time given in Parliament and the newspapers debating what is seen in other countries as a non-issue. In France you must carry your ID card and Driving Permit ALL the time. The Gendarmerie carry out random roads checks all the time and if they stop you they will ask to see your driving licence.

The Gendarmerie carry out many random roadside checks

In France no one feels in doing so that they have surrendered their liberty. It's just another card to carry, like the Visa Card or MasterCard when you do the shopping. I'm sure that people in the UK must feel the same when they leave home to do the shopping - they take the same cards with them - why not an ID card also, like we do?

My husband David is more than happy to take all his cards with him when he leaves the house. Especially now, as he has just received his new version of a very important ID card - the new Carte Vitale. This important ID card guarantees immediate and superb health treatment when produced. It is shown all the time when visiting doctors, pharmacies, hospitals etc. In addition to the computer chip that contains important personal and medical data (as did his old card), his new one now has a passport style photo embedded, so people can easily recognise the card holder. Although, "comme habitude", David says the photo makes him look like an escaped criminal.

Some of David's ID cards - carried ALL the time, no problem!

The UK should introduce this system - no one in France would dream of being without this valuable card and carry it with all their other ID cards - and no one feels that their liberties are at risk by carrying them.

Surely, at times like this there are much more important matters to discuss than whether ID cards violate personal freedoms - such as when do we go to France for our next holiday?

Saturday in Pézenas at holiday time

2009-07-22T21:01:00.013+02:00

Another busy Saturday market in Pézenas

Saturday, and as usual the busy market place in Pézenas was jam-packed. People busy buying their fruit and vegetables, and hundreds (it seemed like thousands) of tourists making their way up and down Cours Jean Jaurès, the main market street.

There is a wide variety of produce to choose from; oysters from two fish stalls, a colourful setting of plants and flowers nearby, ripe fruit, appealing to all the senses, fresh vegetables, and all of which look as if they have just been dug from someone's garden. None of your regimented shape and colour pre-pack supermarket veg. here. No sir, this is the real stuff! All this from the many stalls packed around the statue of Marianne with her dolphin fountains in the main square.

At the other end of the long market street, a different set of produce to set taste buds tingling. Stalls selling a wide range of olives and spices - taste the different varieties and you will be hooked, stalls with fresh fish, meats from the mobile vans that travel from village to village selling their produce, freshly baked country breads - look at the different sizes and shapes they bake, and the smell of meats and other meals cooking, ready to buy and take home, from paellas to couscous and Beouf Bourguignon.

Mouth watering ready-to-eat meals available on the market...

This is a holiday maker's paradise. And of course, because it's July, the market is packed. Pézenas really puts on a show to ensure people have a holiday they will remember. During the summer months they have several events and shows each week, all to make the holidays complete.

This year is the 43rd Mirondela des Arts, the collective name for all the events organised in Pézenas. Starting July 5 with a big street parade, the cultural events unfold each week. This week there is a comedy show "Les Chevaliers du Fiel", and a fantastic night of flamenco, with "Jazzing Flamenco", performed in the open air theatre. This is a programme full of events, with something to please everyone who takes a holiday in the Pézenas area this summer.

A holiday treat for Rugby League followers

2009-07-19T19:06:00.006+02:00

Photo shows Catalan Dragons at their play-off match against Wigan Warriors

We have several friends who are involved in the tourist industry in one way or another. A few have holiday properties and this week David was intrigued to learn from two friends that they had received booking enquiries from Yorkshire from people who wanted to stay so they could watch the Catalans Dragons Rugby League team.

(As a note, the Catalans Dragons - occasionally referred to as the Dragons or Les Catalans, are based in Perpignan in what is essentially northern Catalonia. They play in both the European Super League and the French Rugby League Championship. In 2007 the Dragons became the first French side and first non-English side to reach the final of the Challenge Cup, playing St Helens at Wembley Stadium before a record crowd - for a French team, of over 84,000.)

Of course David was intrigued as once upon a time he was a keen Rugby League fan, following Castleford, his favourite team. He soon learned that Hull FC Rugby League team are playing against the Dragons, not at the Dragon's home ground in Perpignan, but much closer to us (we live in Montblanc) at the Stade de la Méditerranée in Béziers.

The Stade de la Méditerranée in Béziers

This is not the first time the Dragons have played a 'home game' at a different venue to their home ground. Last year they played Warrington Wolves in the Olympic Stadium in the Catalan capital, Barcelona, Spain.

I did tell you in the last two postings that in this part of the south of France there is a strong association with all things Catalan / Spanish, particularly the closer you get to the frontier with Spain, and of course, Perpignan, around one hour away from us, is so close to the frontier.

A poster for the game - the city of Béziers is advertising the game widely

I write this posting because David asked me to, not just for the Rugby league match, which he says is very important for many people in the UK, particularly where rugby league is played and enjoyed, but also because the match takes place during the most important week in Béziers calendar - on Saturday August 15. This is the Féria week, a mix of all things French and Catalan, a must see when taking holidays in this area, and an event that attracts between 700,000 to 900,000 visitors. I will write more on this in my next post.

Fête Nationale - the celebrations continue

2009-07-15T15:08:00.008+02:00

July 14, and Montblanc celebrates Bastille Day
When you plan your holidays in France for next year, then, for something extra special, try to arrange the dates around July 14. This is of course the National Day, the day (s) when France celebrates being France. Certainly here in the south of France, it is non-stop party celebrations, with yet another opportunity for the French people to enjoy life to the full.

In my last posting I explained the events on the eve of National Day, which for my village was a huge barbeque and dancing in the village picnic area. Our village of Montblanc is no different from other villages in the area, each having their own beautiful way of celebrating Bastille Day.

But of course, the real event is Tuesday July 14. The day starts with the obligatory Pentanque Final, Final, in front of the Mairie, play commencing at 9.00am, and finishing at 13.00 with a huge paella royale - everyone invited.

Café de France used to dry and gardianne toro

The activities start again at 19h, with a meal organized by the Café de France, the village bar and cafe. The meal is served on the main market street, opposite the Cafe de France, with seating arranged around the music stage, already festooned with lighting, flags and bunting. There is melon and prosciutto, then a choice between dry or gardianne de toro, followed by fruit salad. By the time the meal is served the place is full, with hundreds of people sat in groups busy chatting with friends and neighbors and enjoying a glass (or two) of our best rosé wine village.

David takes this photo of our table as we sit with friends and neighbors

Festival fireworks
After the meal, a slow walk to our football field for a grand firework display. This is a must for everyone, so seats are left unattended so everyone can enjoy the show - with the obligatory Ooooh and Aaah as each rocket burst fills the sky.

The fireworks being watch at the entrance to the football field

Torches
At the end of the display adults and children alike are given their torches - a medieval type blazing torch. Willing volunteers are quick to assemble the torch and make sure they are lit.

Police and brass band
Then, patiently waiting until everyone has their flame ready in their hand, people crowd onto hand and Béziers Cap d'Agde road and walk slowly back to the village, escorted by the village police car, with it's newly bought blue flashing lights on top. Behind the police because there is a local jazz brass band, playing slow marching music to liven things up. It's a ten minute walk back to the village square, plenty of time to catch up with other friends that you had not seen during the meal, and to give the customary "kiss-kiss-kiss" on the cheeks, with a good greeting of "hello" or "good evening".

The brass jazz band leading villagers back to The Place

Music for the evening
Arriving at the Place, the group Providing the evening's entertainment are already making music. But, they stop for a break as the mayor asks everyone to stand and sing the La Marseillaise - the national anthem. This is a really beautiful moment for me, to see everyone standing, most people singing, and everyone feeling proud as the national anthem plays.

Then, on with the music - and the dancing, and of course, more wine to help spend an eventful evening together with our friends.

The group "Cocktail Music" on stage at The Place

A little bit of Spain and France mixed together
There is one more event to mark the end of the day, the "Toro de Fuego".

A bit of history to explain. Years ago, this part of France was part of Spain, or rather Catalonia, a country on its own. At one time stretched from the Catalonia capital Barcelona to Nimes, the language was Catalan - still spoken by many in our village, and the customs and culture were not what you would call typically French, rather Spanish. Today, everyone enjoys this mix of French and Spanish, and the Toro de Fuego helps keep up the traditional mix - as does the paella served at most events in the village.

So, at midnight, the Toro - a 'bull' decorated with loads of fireworks, struts slowly down the main village street in tune to the music played by the group on the stage. This is the time to take cover, and hide from the bull, as are spluttering fireworks, exploding and spraying all over the place.

It could be quit dangerous I guess. David is me this would not be allowed in the UK on health and safety grounds. But I think it's good fun - and you would hide from a real bull in the street just as I am doing now. In reality the bull is man-made and is held high by one of our local fire fighters, and for sure, all the village fire fighting team - including para-medics, and here as well, just in case.

Then as the partying continued until the early hours, people slowly drift away after another enjoyable National Day. As I said at the beginning on the post, try to make your summer holiday with week containing July 14. It is extra special. However, if that's not possible, you have the rest of the summer and this is the start of all the village events, continuing thro 'July, August into September.

Fête Nationale, the celebrations start

2009-07-14T16:13:00.005+02:00

Holiday barbecue picnic by the river Thongue

As expected, and as predicted in the last posting, this will be an exceptionally busy week. The holiday season is now in full swing and of course, Tuesday this week is Fête Nationale, the biggest celebration period of the year.

As a French person the period always brings out pride and good feelings about my country. It has everything to offer citizens and this day is a way to celebrate being French.

In real term this means many, many events to attend, people to meet and generally have set out determined to have a good time. There is a good feeling of national pride but certainly not nationalistic in the worst sense of the word.

Throughout the country the celebrations differ from region to region. Of course the capital is home to the big parades, with the president taking the salute as troops from all regiments proudly march past. And of course, night time is given to the Eiffel tower with what has to be the biggest and best firework display.

Village festivities in Languedoc-Roussillon

Closer to home, in my region of Languedoc-Roussillon, every town and village have their days of festivities, with streets festooned with red white and blue bunting, tricolour flags flying everywhere, and people getting ready to take to the streets to have their parties.

Here in my village of Montblanc, the celebrations started Sunday, with the final championship petanque games on La Place outside the Mairie. This always causes excitement and plenty of heated discussion. On the eve of Fête National, Monday, we really take to the streets. After crowds gather in front of the Mairie to be given their own French Flag, there is a leisurely walk through the village. This gives friends and neighbours time to meet, talk and generally catch up with the gossip and news. And as this is holiday time, there are always plenty of foreign holiday makers - British, Irish, German, and Dutch - from all parts of the world, who are encouraged to join in the celebrations. This is a wonderful time to spend a holiday in the south of Fance and to join in the fun and excitement.

The walk is punctured with regular scheduled stops at the homes of the village councillors. The tradition is for a selection of around six councillors to have 'open-door' and provide nibbles and wine for the assembly, all set up on trestle tables outside their home.

The barbecue picnic down by the river

The walk continues and villagers thread their way eventually to the large picnic at the side of the River Thongue. This is a huge area, with purpose built barbecue are for anyone to use at anytime. As usual the council have erected a stage with full stage lighting and set up tables and chairs for the village to enjoy music and dancing. And of course the barbecue!

Some of the town hall team volunteer to cook what appears to be hundreds of kilos of plump, ripe sausages. Certainly not the British sausages I tasted once. Ughh! These are pure pork "saucisse de Toulouse" made by the local butcher.

One batch of saucisse de Toulouse being cooked on one of the large barbecue frames

No soft doughy finger cakes for these sausages. They deserve the very best French Baguettes, baked on the day by our local baker. All this with the best rose and red wine provided by our local Cave Co-operative, and all given freely for everyone to enjoy.

Me and Alain getting the fresh baquettes ready from the Town Hall van

Then, once everyone has settled down, it's music time, with a local group providing the entertainment - a mixture of popular English and French music. Just right for dancing the night away, not forgetting that the celebrations continue the next day. More about that later...

The music and dancing starts

Tour de France 2009

2009-07-12T13:13:00.005+02:00

Watching Stage 5 in Bessan
This has been an extremely busy, hectic week - and next week promises to be even busier. That's when France stops and French people take time off to enjoy being French -it's National Holiday (Fête National - Bastille Day). Although Tuesday is the official holiday the celebrations always start the day before, with many events taking place on the eve of Fête National - concerts, dances, fireworks, meals with friends and neighbours... And of course there will be many French people who "fait de pont" - make a bridge day, or finished early on Friday to make the holiday weekend last longer

Here in the village preparations are now complete, with a vast stage erected on the place, the main street decorated with red, white and blue bunting, and the tricolour flag in place at every conceivable place (we have ours already on show at the gate!).

But, that is for tomorrow, and hopefully I will have time to tell you more about this next week.

The news for this week is the Tour de France. For this event I encouraged my husband David - who loves cycling, to take a day out from work, and watch the tour in reality, rather than on the television he normally sticks on his desk in the office as he works.

We live in Montblanc, and the tour was scheduled to go through our neighbouring village, Bessan, which is an excellent location to view the spectacle. The tour's start (Stage 5) wasn't so far away either, starting from Cap d'Agde, which is around 12 kms from our home. So Wednesday we packed a cool box and joined with thousands of others lining the streets and roads in the next village. In addition to local people, the village was packed with tourists from all over the world - many people arrange their holidays in France to coincide with the Tour de France!).

We made an early start to make sure we had a good position near the Bessan Cave Co-operative (home to David's favourite Rose wine). This is also a place where the cyclists have to slow to make the turn around the roundabout as they head towards Béziers, so a good chance to see all the riders as they flash past.

The crowds started to gather early to get a good view

To really enjoy the tour you do need to be there early so you can join in the excitement as the caravan passes. The caravan is a 20 kms long cavalcade of around 200 publicity cars, trucks and motor bikes that travel before the cyclists. They pass very quickly, but as there are so many it can take over an hour. Spectators are given a free show of the publicity machines - vehicles converted into all type of shapes and different sizes to advertise particular services or products. Horses on top of cars to advertise PMU, giant cows advertising cheese (Vache qui rit - the Laughing Cow) on top of vans, girls dressed out in familiar white and red spotted costumes to advertise Carrefour (was Champion) supermarkets, etc. Whilst passing, loads of freebies are thrown into the crowds - sun hats, sun cream (necessary!), lollipops from Haribo, T-shirts, free newspapers, anything to grab your attention.

Young enthusiasts study the route

There is a lull as the long caravan finishes and excitement builds up as people wait patiently from the main event.

The arrival of a motorcade with over 50 cars, each with what seem to be twenty spare cycles strapped to their roof, is the first signal that the riders are coming, and the signal is made stronger with the sight of some 30 gendarmerie motorbikes, each with the lights blazing and many with their blues flashing.

Moments later they come. At this stage the tête (the head, or the first bunch of cyclists) consists of four cyclists only. My husband David had quickly moved to a slightly different position so that he can take better photos as the cyclists flash by.

The leading riders as they go towards Béziers

You have to be quick as a few seconds later the Peleton - the main group of riders, is in front of you. They speed past, with David cramming in as many photos as possible. Then, in minutes, it's all over. They are gone, making their way to Béziers, and then onwards to Perpignan for the finish of this stage, altogether some 200 kms. A good day out, brilliant sunshine, a picnic with good food and wine, and a spectacular event.

As a foot note, although I am French, my husband is British so he takes particular note of the British riders. He was really pleased to see that two days earlier Mark Cavendish (GB) won Stage 3, and as I post this, I am being told that Bradley Higgins (GB) is also doing exceptionally well, and is currently in 5th overall position.

It's easier to come to Montpellier this summer

2009-06-13T10:14:00.007+02:00

Place de la Comedie, Montpellier

Low cost company Easyjet will open a second route from Luton airport to the Montpellier Méditerranée airport. This new summer line will be from July 7 to September 19, at the rate of three flights a week: on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. So now, as well as Gatwick (Easyjet), Stansted (Ryanair), Montpellier serves three London airports. This means it gets easier to take your holiday here in the south of France. And, arriving in July, you will be here for a big festival event in Montpellier.

Radio France and Montpellier Languedoc-Roussillon Festival
13 - 31 July 2009
Montpellier extends its walls and gardens to provide the setting for around a hundred concerts with music to capture all moods: operas, symphonic concerts, chamber music, recitals by young soloists, jazz, local concerts, hospital concerts, France-Culture debates- a whole host of events on the daily agenda.

Numerous events take place every day. Whether in the air-conditioned hall of the Corum or in the courtyards and gardens of the city's historic monuments, great music is to be enjoyed by all.

So, if you are taking your holiday in July, then don’t miss this huge musical festival. Visit the Montpellier Tourist Office website for more information, or the Radio France website.

Canal du Midi en fête

2009-05-26T15:47:00.009+02:00

Special event to celebrate the historic Canal du Midi
A special attraction shortly in Béziers – “Canal du Midi en Fête”, a special event to celebrate the historic Canal du Midi

Béziers of course has special links with the canal, not least because the canal cuts through the town. The famous Les 9 écluses de Fonseranes (the 9 Locks of Fonseranes) which enable boats to continue on their journey from Toulouse to the Mediterranean, are also located in Béziers.

The locks are the most important construction on the Canal du Midi. They comprise eight water basins and nine locks, which make it possible for boats to be lowered 21.50m, over a total of length of more than 300m. The splendour of the site and the technical prowess which it represents in terms of civil engineering, continue to attract visitors from far and wide and make this a highlight on any Canal du Midi holiday. (The Fonseranes Locks are the 3rd most visited tourist site in Languedoc-Roussillon, after the Pont du Gard and the City of Carcassonne.)

And finally, Béziers is famous for Pierre-Paul Riquet. Born in Béziers in 1604 he was the equivalent of a present-day tax inspector in the region of Languedoc and was the prime mover for the construction of the Canal du Midi. He invested his own fortune in the building of the Canal. Unfortunately Pierre-Paul died in October 1680, exhausted by the scale of the task he had undertaken, although only 1.6km of canal still remained to be dug before reaching the Etang de Thau, linking the Atlantic and the Mediterranean – what a feat. The statue of Pierre-Paul Riquet (photo) in Béziers is located at the bottom of the café lined boulevard that carries his name.

To help celebrate this achievement, there is a locks festival on the site on June 12, 13 and 14, when you can enjoy canal trips, historic re-enactments, exhibitions and a range of other attractions.

Some interesting facts about the Canal du Midi
Length: 240km, from Toulouse to the Etang de Thau

Width: 20m at the surface, 11m at the bottom

Depth: 2m

Average slope: 58m between Toulouse and Naurouze, 110m, between Naurouze and Sète

Total number of locks: 63

Total number of buildings: 350 (including 130 bridges)

Volume of earthworks: 7 million m3 of earth all moved by hand!

Duration of works: 14 years

French restaurants – bad news, good news

2009-04-28T13:17:00.003+02:00

French restaurants lower their prices for tourists
An article worth reading this morning on the internet is on the BBC Europe page and is entitled “French restaurants feel the crunch”. The article (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/8021292.stm) describes how many of the restaurants in France are being forced to tighten their belts and lower prices as recession eats into their profits.

So, the BAD NEWS
The report says that because of the downturn in trade more than 6,000 restaurants are reported to have closed in France last year - and that was before the economic crunch really started to bite.

For many years, The French government has been lobbying the European Union so they could be allowed to lower the VAT charged on meals. They, or more precisely, the café owners and restaurateurs, wanted the VAT (TVA in French) lowered from 19.6% to 5.5%. They claimed this would enable them to lower the prices and at the same time create jobs.

And now the GOOD NEWS
Today the Secretary of State for Commerce Hervé Novelli announced that, following the agreement reached in Brussels, VAT charged in cafés and restaurants would be lowered to 5.5%, effective from July 1 this year. This should mean good news for holidaymakers in France as the owners of the restaurants have promised to lower the prices charged, rather than keep the money as extra profit. We’ll keep an eye open to see if prices really do come down as promised.

Lac du Salagou celebrations

2009-04-26T22:27:00.002+02:00

Special events between April and September at Lac du Salagou

Lac du Salagou is a man-made lake situated between Clermont l'Hérault and Bédarieux and is the largest artificial lake in the Languedoc-Rousillon region.

Constructed exactly 40 years ago to be used for irrigation purposes and as a buffer for drinking water supply (fire-fighting planes (Canadairs) fill up in this lake in case of serious fires in the region), the lake has become a unique and important tourist destination. To make way for the lake in the Salagou valley, years of preparatory work were required. Now occupying 750 hectares with a shoreline of 28 kilometres, the lake, excluding the shorelines, varies in depth from 4m to 45m – there are three drowned villages below the water. The water temperature varies between 5⁰C in winter to 28⁰C during the summer months.

Each year, the shores and surrounding countryside are host to thousands of tourists. Attractions include superb Mountain Bike Trials, horse riding courses, plenty of space for ramblers, fishing, windsurfing, sailing and swimming from the many pebble lakeside banks,

The region is holding many special events between April and September to celebrate this important tourist attraction. Visit the Vivre l'Hérault website for more information of the events.