Happy New Year from French Country

A Happy New Year to all visitors to the French Country website. Hopefully many of you find the bits and pieces of news I write interesting, giving you a flavour of life here in the south of France. Perhaps the articles may even entice some of you to sample the life for yourself and spend a beautiful holiday in our region.

For us this has been a wonderful festive season. I last wrote about the pre-Christmas shopping trip we made to Montpellier, getting the Christmas feeling as we spent time in Les Hivernales - the Christmas Market. Well, the feeling continued as we spent a beautiful Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. For Christmas Eve we went to Béziers, to la cathédrale Saint-Nazair, shown below.

This is a beautiful cathedral with a history stretching back to the 13th century. The original cathedral, built on the site of an ancient Roman temple, was completely destroyed during the Cathars crusade in 1209. The reconstruction of the current cathedral started around 1250, and over the centuries further additions have been made to the original building.

The Christmas service in the cathedral is always special. This year, as before, the choir - les Petits Chanteurs de la Trinité, made the service even more so. It was wonderful to listen to the choir as they sang some very popular French seasonal songs.

Les Petits Chanteurs de la Trinité in the cathedral in Béziers

For Christmas Day we had decided to forgo the many invitations we had received, and resisted the special Christmas Day menus offered by most of the local restaurants. We had already agreed that after such a busy and hectic year we wanted a special tête-a-tête. And so it was, with a traditional French Christmas meal cooked and served at home. Just the two of us, enjoying Christmas Day together.

During the festive week we then met with many friends and spent several evenings enjoying apéros and nibbles and long conversations to discover how everyone had been spending this traditional family time.

For St. Sylvestre - New Year's Eve, we were invited by our friends from Nantes to spend the evening at their home with friends and family in the village. This was a beautiful way to bring in the New Year so we gladly accepted their kind invitation.

This was a so typically French, south of France French, dinner, which, after a large selection of different mise en bouche apéros, started with a large plate containing loads of oysters, fresh from Brittany. Treats to follow included other specialities from our friend's home area, Brittany, with a small cassolette with Fois gras and apples, sanglier (boar) with cherries, potatoes gratinée and dressings.

"the meal started with a large plate containing loads of oysters..."

Then a wonderful selection of cheeses, including two our friends brought back from the UK - Cheddar and Cheshire (for David!). Finally, a traditional Christmas buche - a wonderful chocolate log made by Lucette, one of our friends.

Of course, we had champagne and quite a few bottles (we didn't count) of wine, both from St. Etienne and our village. As I said, a typical French New Years Eve celebration with friends to bring in 2010.

As a footnote we returned on New Years Day to share afternoon lunch with our friends. A totally different celebration to that enjoyed by over 300 people in nearby Cap d'Agde. They spent their New Year's Day on the naturist beach at Cap d'Agde enjoying the traditional midday plunge into the Mediterranean. Whilst I strongly recommend the Mediterranean for swimming during the holidays I can't quite say that it's at it's best on New Year's day. Even though we had a typical blue sky with lots of sunshine, the temperature of the sea was not that we have during the summer - for sure! The photo below, published from the local Midi Libre newspaper, shows some of the swimmers as they take the plunge. Brrrr...

Montpellier and "Les Hivernales"

The Christmas tree on Place de la Comedie - not real snow of course!

On Saturday, for the first time this year, we both got really caught up with the Christmas spirit. We went to Montpellier to do some shopping. Not Christmas shopping, but shopping normally. I needed new shoes and Montpellier has plenty of shoe shops. They offer a good choice too, from the normal average everyday shoes, to the exorbitantly expensive high fashion shoes. I wish! I would be very happy to just buy nice shoes.

This time we did not park in the city centre. We were feeling environmentally friendly so we parked as we left the A9 autoroute and took a Park and Ride tram from St. Jean de Vedas. The city has done really well to invest in the super tram system. They have two main lines covering a very wide area of the city and outlying suburbs and are now in the process of constructing a third line that will go directly from city center to the coastal beaches.

I must write more about the tram system on another posting as the system is so important for tourists taking their holidays in the area. Everyone should know how easy it is to use and the areas it covers.

But for now back to the Staurday shopping trip. We alighted from the tram right in the centre, on Place de la Comedie. And surprise, surprise, right into the center of the annual "Les Hivernales".

Temperartures of around 18 degrees C - that's considered cold for southerners, but warm enough to sit outside and have a 'vin chaud'

In the north-east of France at this time of year the city of Strasbourg has the oldest and largest Christmas market in France. With over 300 chalets market, the city attracts more than 1.6 million visitors, who throng the ancient streets during the Christmas season. Strasbourg Christmas market has been there since at least 1570 - at that time called Klausenmaërik (Market St. Nicolas), an Anglo-Saxon name varying marking the close alliance with Germany.

The city of Montpellier's history goes back even further, but "Les Hivernales" (Christmas Market) is a more recent tradition compared with Strasburg. Nevertheless, with over 170 traders presenting and selling their products, it is quite an event.

On Place de la Comedie, the traders are there from December 4 thro' January 3. It's billed as four weeks of happiness, rendezvous, dining and a general 'feel-good' atmosphere. Well, for the two of us, it was all that, and with all the choice from different vendors we were spoiled for choice for Christmas gifts for friends and family - or for just the two of us.

Nearly every cabin is selling artisan goods - here chocolate goodies from a local Chocolatier

The city makes it clear that this is not "your ordinary Christmas Markett" but a Christmas market that reflect the customs and traditions of the south of France. There are no Swiss Chalet types for example, instead, in the best Mediterranean traditions, there are' cabins'. Traditionally these are built using timber and reeds, to reflect the earlier living accommodation of the nearby Camargue.

This cabin does a good trade selling Aligot - one of David's favourites ever since we had a short break in the Aubrac, home of Agilot. A dish made from fresh, raw milk cheese, pressed curd, mashed potatoes, fresh cream, butter and garlic. The cabin was also typically selling Andouillette (Chitterlings) – NOT one of David’s favourites!

Montpellier Christmas market is not just an event to buy gifts, it's also a place to meet local producers who love their products - meats, cheeses, aligot (see 'cabin' selling Agilot above), perfumes, chocolates and more. Local products 'made with love' they say. It's a beautiful event filled with atmosphere and the southern way of life.

We spent more time looking around the different 'cabins' than we anticipated when we arrived, but spent a wonderful Saturday afternoon. Oh yes, and I got a beautiful pair of shoes. Good day!

Closing note. Who can resist Marrons Chaud - roasted chestnuts? Christmas and Bing Crosby or what? So yes, we bought some, and, fingers burning as we peeled them, we ate them while we waited for the tram to take us home.

23rd Téléthon weekend

An important day today - the start of the 23rd Téléthon, a popular television event that involves everyone throughout the whole of France. The event is held to raise money to fund research on rare diseases. Each year over 5 million people take to the streets for the event, a festival sometimes described as "July 14 in winter", and it is a sort of social bond for many French people.

Last year 104 million euros was raised during the event weekend, nearly half coming from the street events; sales of crêpes, bric-a-brac, sales of items knitted by volunteers, bike races, balloon releases and so on. The rest comes from the 'phone-in donations during a 36 hour television marathon, with all French state television channels involved.

Each of our village associations organised something different, but all with the same aim of raising money.

Problems

There is a small blot on the scene this year however which threatens to dampen the spirit of those who participate and those who give their money. The high fashion designer, millionaire Pierre Berge, who is the President of Sidaction (an organisation trying to raise money for research into AIDS and helping to develop new drugs), sparked an uproar which threatens to cause problems.

He accused the French association against Myopathies (AFM), whose funds depend mainly on Téléthon money, as being "a parasite on the generosity the French people". Rather than the whole money raised going to a charity which funds research into disease affecting a small minority, he proposes to share the money raised with other equally serving causes. In addition, he pointed out the vast sums of money that the association put in banks just to earn interest income, rather than spending on research. I believe he is right in this aim.

Montblanc Téléthon

However, that did not stop the Téléthon and all the fund-raising events today. Our village of Montblanc is no exception, and despite a cooler than normal November day, the village Place was full, with people participating in this annual event.

This event started at 8.30 with the sale of "d'Oreillettes", a large and sweet crispy thin wafer, already prepared by a local artisan and boxed ready to take home (photo left). Every city, town and village will be taking part, holding special attractions and events, with the sole aim of raising money for the charity involved.

Then at 9.00 the first of "Randodonnee Cycliste", a leisurely bike ride of around 60 kms (leisurely for the French that is - a marathon for my husband!), taking in several neighbouring villages. Just after this event started, the local motorcycle club (around 40 members) set off on their adventure, raising money as they go.

Around the Place there were many market stalls, quickly erected by volunteers to host various sales pitches. This included the sale of fresh oysters, direct from Bouzigues, a coastal with the largest oyster beds on the Mediterranean and just down the road from us, so to speak. There are also stalls selling various hand-made items. Face-painting for children, release of balloons with messages quickly written on their labels, everything is in full swing.

Fishing in the village fountain

Members of Pescofis - the local fishing club, even commandeered the village fountain, filling the water with trout! Children paid to hire a small fishing line to hook the fish, the successful ones proudly giving them to mum to take home for the evening meal. The photo below shows children deciding which of the trout they will catch when the event starts.

The large barbeque was doing extremely well, selling burgers, sausis and fries - delicious. Then one stall sells other food, something typically French - crêpes!

My best friend Martine (in the centre of the photo) was making and selling these.

She confided in me that as she is originally from Brittany in the north, it's only correct that she makes them. After all she says, it is a Bretagne delicacy, and she makes them properly - not like they do in the south.

The event will continue tonight, with a dance in the village hall, and with a large Lotto organised for tomorrow afternoon.

We're not sure how much money has been raised yet, but everyone has worked extremely hard to make this event a success.

Winegrowers demonstrate in region's capital

The start of the demonstration at Place Peyrou, Montpellier

I chose a bad day for a RDV with a client on Wednesday. The meeting had been arranged two weeks ago, and was to be held in offices situated in Rue de la Loge, Montpellier. I thought the city was busier than usual when I arrived and parked in the Place de la Comedie large car park. Wednesday is usually busy as it's the children's day off from school, so it's the day that mum can take them with her to do some shopping. But it seemed much busier than normal.

As I left the underground car park I saw lots more activity and it was then I realised I had chosen the day of the big Winegrowers demonstration. Bad decision, but an important client, so I had to go ahead and try to get through.

The reason for the demonstration is well known. For a long time the winegrowers in this area have been making complaints about the perilous state of the wine growing industry in Languedoc. Normally this has involved lobbying politicians or holding large demonstration - like today's, to raise public awareness.

Unfortunately, many members of the wine growing community feel that this is not enough and many times have resorted to violence. This has included throwing sticks of dynamite at agriculture ministry offices in Montpellier and Carcassonne causing serious damage, burning cars, including a car outside ministry offices in Nîmes, trashing and setting fire to the Péage offices near Pézenas, trashing local supermarkets, who they say either do not pay enough for the wine - or worse still, they sell wine from other countries instead of only French wine.

The government did act in response to the lobbying and demonstrations but the €70 million rescue plan tabled by the minister of agriculture Dominique Bussereau has been widely criticised for not going far enough. The winegrowers say they need and deserve more.

So this time they had a very large demonstration, completing blocking many parts of the city. I must add that David says that the French are by far the best at organising and staging demonstrations and strikes. Stood in the middle and looking at today's event's, I believe he must be right.

Then, after what was essentially a peaceful if not very noisy 'manifestation', the fringe element did start to cause some serious problems. I had long returned home, passing hundreds of gendarmes along the motorway and at the Pézenas péage, and the TV and radio reports were full of the events that occurred after the main demonstration in Montpellier had finished.

Several coach loads of winegrowers and their supporters, homeward bound, decided to stop at various locations on the way. The police did their best to stop them - they blocked off the town of Pézenas with over 200 gendarmes, and Béziers with even more gendarmes.

However, the demonstrators managed to stop their coaches near the village of Servian. They attacked the Lidl supermarket, trashed several police cars, lit fires on the route nationale and even set off rocket flares at the patrolling police helicopter, before the gendarmes repelled them with tear gas.

This was a sad end to what could have been a popular demonstration - the whole community depends upon a thriving wine industry so there is a lot of sympathy for the winegrowers. However, with so much world competition, and a shrinking home market (within France, wine consumption has fallen to 50 litres per adult per year, compared to 100 litres in the 1960s) it is more and more difficult for the winegrowers.

Perhaps a change of tactics is needed by all those involved in producing wine if matters are to improve.